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  <url>
    <loc>https://www.analogclinic.com/blog</loc>
    <changefreq>daily</changefreq>
    <priority>0.75</priority>
    <lastmod>2026-08-05</lastmod>
  </url>
  <url>
    <loc>https://www.analogclinic.com/blog/marantz-2226b-receiver-speakers-cutting-out-intermittently</loc>
    <changefreq>monthly</changefreq>
    <priority>0.5</priority>
    <lastmod>2026-08-05</lastmod>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/30edf606-a474-422f-bade-acfbfa803bdc/Marantz+2226B+Receiver</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Marantz 2226B Repair: Intermittent Speaker and Channel Cutouts - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>Customer supplied photo of this masterpiece living in its home.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/2aee874d-72ba-4d77-9a3f-0130e3c34389/Links.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Marantz 2226B Repair: Intermittent Speaker and Channel Cutouts - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>Example from another receiver: removable jumpers connecting PRE OUT to MAIN IN. The Marantz 2226B uses switching contacts inside its RCA sockets instead.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/9d688eba-4c3b-45b9-bec6-272668b13288/tempImageoYfsnA.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Marantz 2226B Repair: Intermittent Speaker and Channel Cutouts - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>The rear panel of the Marantz 2226B showing the PRE OUT and MAIN IN sockets. Unlike the example above, this receiver does not use removable metal jumpers.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/120ff003-3673-4b23-a08c-602c1adf42e5/RCA+Internal+View</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Marantz 2226B Repair: Intermittent Speaker and Channel Cutouts - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>I know it’s hard to tell, but these sockets are sealed inside.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/49653581-a2d3-4043-931d-c1cb5e1a3dbf/View+of+the+pots</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Marantz 2226B Repair: Intermittent Speaker and Channel Cutouts - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>Here you can see the potentiometers from the underside of the receiver. If you look closely you will see the sliding switches tucked away between them. The photo below gives a better view of the switches.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/cf57cff1-28f8-48e6-b7c3-104d50a4bbbf/Switches+inside+the+receiver</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Marantz 2226B Repair: Intermittent Speaker and Channel Cutouts - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>Here you can clearly see what the sliding switches look like.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/de446fc7-584c-421d-af78-107a7214842b/Rotary+control</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Marantz 2226B Repair: Intermittent Speaker and Channel Cutouts - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>This is the main source-selector switch, located toward the rear of the receiver and connected to the front-panel control by a shaft. Rotary switches like this contain numerous contacts and are common sources of noise, intermittent audio, and channel dropouts. Place absorbent material around the switch, apply a small amount of DeoxIT, and rotate the selector repeatedly through every position.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
  </url>
  <url>
    <loc>https://www.analogclinic.com/blog/quadraflex-575</loc>
    <changefreq>monthly</changefreq>
    <priority>0.5</priority>
    <lastmod>2026-08-02</lastmod>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/a019cbed-5c91-4e71-9979-3cc440e8f8f4/Quadraflex+575+Receiver</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Quadraflex 575 Repair – Right Channel Low Volume at High Frequencies - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>Restored, repaired, and once again displaying that unmistakable warm 1970s glow.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/bf6b9ebb-24ee-42c6-82cc-8b3ff2037ce5/Wooden+Case</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Quadraflex 575 Repair – Right Channel Low Volume at High Frequencies - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/c9906499-d242-431a-8e78-4c3c310d3327/Fake+Wood</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Quadraflex 575 Repair – Right Channel Low Volume at High Frequencies - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>Is this wood or not? The inside is wood but it seems the grain is a vinyl veneer.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/caec6a55-b74b-4bd8-b3d3-df470611f427/Bottom+of+amp</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Quadraflex 575 Repair – Right Channel Low Volume at High Frequencies - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>There is a metal panel, shown removed, which reveals the preamp board and used mainly for screening.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/0eaddc68-88ae-459c-8057-46f48056aefa/tempImagerOVPOW.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Quadraflex 575 Repair – Right Channel Low Volume at High Frequencies - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>Top down view with the cover removed. Power amp board is to the rear. Power supply front right and FM tuner along the front. AM tuner top left. Note the dial cord layout. That becomes very important soon enough.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/0813c355-e124-43b3-bc74-2819c603348a/tempImageccVlE8.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Quadraflex 575 Repair – Right Channel Low Volume at High Frequencies - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>I connected a preamp to these connections and used a signal generator to send various levels to the amp. The channels were both equally balanced which eliminated the power amp as the issue.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/452b0130-8eaa-40c5-857e-f49946951583/tempImagez06qlP.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Quadraflex 575 Repair – Right Channel Low Volume at High Frequencies - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>This is the preamp board we saw earlier. This is where we will find the fault.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/0283e578-7e14-4258-9884-f6da65209918/tempImageYPxdoj.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Quadraflex 575 Repair – Right Channel Low Volume at High Frequencies - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>A closer view of the preamp board. Let’s get the front panel off to get access to the preamp. And this is where the fun will begin!</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/66a00f15-d7d5-48f9-94d8-a1359652f2cb/tempImagemGG5gg.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Quadraflex 575 Repair – Right Channel Low Volume at High Frequencies - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/af018426-487e-440c-96be-448faaef882c/tempImageWt5r3w.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Quadraflex 575 Repair – Right Channel Low Volume at High Frequencies - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>The tuning knob removed. You can’t see it easily, but the center is glued to the shaft. I ended up having to pull the enter shaft out.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/658c56bd-76f9-44a0-a672-7712080a938e/tempImage6kkR9B.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Quadraflex 575 Repair – Right Channel Low Volume at High Frequencies - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>The tuning dial is connected to a shaft which adjusts using that small nut. To release it the nut must be removed. It was very tight! Once removed the shaft unscrews and pulls out. Warning: Doing so allows the tuning counterweight to swing free and if you are not careful that dial cord will come adrift and then your day will descend into guessing how the cord is threaded. Note: there are no service manuals for this so take a lot of photos!</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/521ca017-503a-4200-b7b2-2a737937e62a/tempImageETrCAz.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Quadraflex 575 Repair – Right Channel Low Volume at High Frequencies - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>Tip: What I did was slide a screwdriver in as I withdrew the shaft so that it held everything in place. This proved to be effective and prevented that weight from moving too much and allowing the dial cord to detach. Phew!</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/d7a17e09-0e70-4f8b-a310-4cd4b7a755e6/tempImageNXoJ3c.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Quadraflex 575 Repair – Right Channel Low Volume at High Frequencies - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>Here you can see the dial cord on the back of the counterweight. The tuning knob shaft slides through that brass collet where the screwdriver is currently holding things in place. Also watch the dial cord does not come off that small plastic wheel.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/42f3bb4d-0c6a-46eb-93dc-12c77a44f38b/tempImageBRFK16.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Quadraflex 575 Repair – Right Channel Low Volume at High Frequencies - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>Here you can see the front panel removed and the preamp partially released.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/7939fca4-40aa-4f7c-80e9-719bd13a5143/tempImageS0NTWd.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Quadraflex 575 Repair – Right Channel Low Volume at High Frequencies - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>And this is why the front panel was never far away from the unit. There is an overload indicator LED glued into the front panel but there is enough room to move the panel our of the way to get the preamp board out.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/b10bc9fa-265a-428b-bc8e-4147d747bc5b/tempImageGbjnS3.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Quadraflex 575 Repair – Right Channel Low Volume at High Frequencies - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>Here you can see the access gained to get that preamp board released.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/7f40e379-7032-4c13-97cb-cc3eeffe4d0d/tempImages9fc30.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Quadraflex 575 Repair – Right Channel Low Volume at High Frequencies - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>Note: Be careful not to remove the screws shown by the white arrows and red warning labels or you’ll end up with parts on your bench that you didn't want, and you'll create considerably more work than you intended.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/329a8cf8-6af4-4885-a3f9-67a5c36d872e/tempImage3fT6z1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Quadraflex 575 Repair – Right Channel Low Volume at High Frequencies - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>The top lug with the white lead was the issue. Note the quality of the ceramic capacitors used. That’s the Japanese for you.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <video:video>
      <video:content_loc>https://video.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/0ce192a3-568d-45a4-826e-13e71a7d2cea/playlist.m3u8</video:content_loc>
      <video:thumbnail_loc>https://video.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/0ce192a3-568d-45a4-826e-13e71a7d2cea/thumbnail</video:thumbnail_loc>
      <video:title>Blog - Quadraflex 575 Repair – Right Channel Low Volume at High Frequencies</video:title>
      <video:description>Blog - Quadraflex 575 Repair – Right Channel Low Volume at High Frequencies</video:description>
    </video:video>
  </url>
  <url>
    <loc>https://www.analogclinic.com/blog/jamo-mpa-101-50w-amplifier-power-supply-failure</loc>
    <changefreq>monthly</changefreq>
    <priority>0.5</priority>
    <lastmod>2026-07-26</lastmod>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/933b2f85-90f9-4af6-acea-5af6f23691d9/Jamo+MPA-101+50W+Amplifier.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Jamo MPA-101 Stuck in Protection? Power Supply Repair - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/697fb3ee-7618-4b9b-a96b-e829746a4009/C39+Location</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Jamo MPA-101 Stuck in Protection? Power Supply Repair - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>Follow the red arrow to C39. It’s positioned close to a regulator that runs warm. Prolonged exposure to this heat may contribute to accelerated capacitor ageing.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/c17455ed-03e4-4ce8-8452-2e9c637b0dd6/Edge+Connector</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Jamo MPA-101 Stuck in Protection? Power Supply Repair - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>One of the edge connectors. Disconnect the lead above before spending 30 mins desoldering it.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/4a52098b-cbc2-429e-9da5-1ed8fc8fee36/Second+Edge+Connector</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Jamo MPA-101 Stuck in Protection? Power Supply Repair - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>The edge connector at the other side. Yep, not much enjoyment to be had here!</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/2a8b2977-f68f-4af9-a5b2-15a9ada97beb/Ground+Wire</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Jamo MPA-101 Stuck in Protection? Power Supply Repair - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>Ground connection in the back of the volume control. This is connected to the power supply board so makes it hard to access so just desolder it.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/eeb69203-f65b-489b-abe9-f0f5ec17f4c1/Front+Panel+Uprights</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Jamo MPA-101 Stuck in Protection? Power Supply Repair - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>These uprights hold the front panel on, but they get in the way so take them out.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/577e9546-06fc-420b-bac4-8e7d9dc6a2c1/Replaced+Components</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Jamo MPA-101 Stuck in Protection? Power Supply Repair - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>Ten capacitors and four resistors later.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/bf8153fe-41ee-4fad-8677-2ddf6813b676/Location+of+Zener+Diodes</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Jamo MPA-101 Stuck in Protection? Power Supply Repair - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/78f09d20-086f-4b46-9270-a7906c0f10f0/New+Resistors</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Jamo MPA-101 Stuck in Protection? Power Supply Repair - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/4d78ed07-c03b-4b6c-85cb-b027d39417d7/Amplifier+module+right</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Jamo MPA-101 Stuck in Protection? Power Supply Repair - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>One of the amp boards. There are 4 small caps on each board, so yes, I was being lazy. The blue item is the speaker protection relay.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/ab3c2bfe-6f9e-4cf9-a853-3e338385b9c1/Amplifier+Board+Left</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Jamo MPA-101 Stuck in Protection? Power Supply Repair - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>The matching amp on the other side. Note the red cover that hides the low pass filter (if using the amp to drive a sub-woofer), and the inputs. Note: you can connect a CD or Tape or anything else with just a line out.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/44b2b3a8-4520-4770-98bd-eff7e0158372/Input+Board</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Jamo MPA-101 Stuck in Protection? Power Supply Repair - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>If you really want to go the whole hog, then there are a few caps here as well.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/e055ace6-b12a-4246-b5b7-fdc3e6451ced/Rear+Panel</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Jamo MPA-101 Stuck in Protection? Power Supply Repair - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>Auto on is a signal sensing so the amp remains in idle until it sees a signal on the line inputs. Line output allows you to daisy chain these amps for multiple speaker systems. Low pass kills all the high frequencies, so this is for driving a sub or big bass drivers. And that’s about it. 3 hours work and maybe $10 worth of parts, but not economically viable for a customer to pay for repairs.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
  </url>
  <url>
    <loc>https://www.analogclinic.com/blog/when-moving-a-guitar-lead-makes-a-fender-amp-hum</loc>
    <changefreq>monthly</changefreq>
    <priority>0.5</priority>
    <lastmod>2026-07-24</lastmod>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/7c50258b-9fba-41cf-a8d2-1f4ea5093448/Fender+Tone+Master+Deluxe+Reverb</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - When Moving a Guitar Lead Makes a Fender Amp Hum - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>Fender Tone Master Deluxe Reverb</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/2aed729d-52c8-49df-bf97-24937be5a461/Neutrik_Diagram</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - When Moving a Guitar Lead Makes a Fender Amp Hum - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>Neutrik Diagram of a jack plug.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/89d6576f-0380-4488-9837-c306cddc0af9/Fender+Jack+Plugs</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - When Moving a Guitar Lead Makes a Fender Amp Hum - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>The two sockets in the center are the original parts. The two outer sockets are the replacements.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
  </url>
  <url>
    <loc>https://www.analogclinic.com/blog/tandberg-tr2055-speaker-protection-relay</loc>
    <changefreq>monthly</changefreq>
    <priority>0.5</priority>
    <lastmod>2026-08-02</lastmod>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/1783449369178-HQXN7QJL1O5IPDSXRDGV/Tandberg+TR-2055</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Tandberg Speaker Protection Relay - This is one of my favorite personal pieces of stereo gear, a Tandberg TR-2055. The Tandberg TR-2055 is a highly regarded vintage FM stereo receiver manufactured in Norway in the 1970s. For a long time I had neglected an issue with the left channel where it would lose volume. If I turned it up loud the volume would return, but would not last.</image:title>
      <image:caption>Tandberg: A legendary Norwegian audio giant that conquered the global hifi market with uncompromising engineering, while pioneering revolutionary worker rights decades ahead of its time, and using beautiful Scandinavian designs and materials.</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/bed6bdd3-7b3c-4733-96c1-0c3a68fc2c5d/Relay_Pinouts.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Tandberg Speaker Protection Relay - This is a classic issue pointing to the speaker protection relay. In this unit the relay was made in the UK by PYE who are long since gone. The pinout pattern is nonstandard today, and the footprint is much different to modern relays</image:title>
      <image:caption>The first attempt was to clean the relay contacts, but popping when powering off the amp was still noticed which suggested relay contacts still pitted, or even the tension in the armature that moves the contacts. Popping is not a good thing and will damaged speakers. It could also have been output capacitors, but first deal with one problem before inventing another. Adding the part number of the original relay here for when the next person who needs help goes searching. S.603398 and it is 24v with a 1K coil, so 0.2a.</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/9196ce5d-0b0f-435a-a348-3825b0c4367c/Internals+of+TR-2055</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Tandberg Speaker Protection Relay - Now, as this was my own equipment I failed to take lots of photos of how I fixed it so this photo is after I pulled the relay but showing the internals! Below you see what we are interested in, the main amplifier board in-between those big capacitors. That clear cover is the relay.</image:title>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/ee765702-edea-4336-bb77-b7582302885b/Relay+on+Power+Amp+Board</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Tandberg Speaker Protection Relay - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>You will see the relay between the big capacitor pairs.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/19a8e813-4030-4444-857e-79a92909beef/Relay_Location</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Tandberg Speaker Protection Relay - In my unit’s year, and they do vary a little, the board location is K801, and that’s the white rectangle you see in the middle of this photo after I had removed the relay.</image:title>
    </image:image>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/30c30d84-2371-4f38-9be3-6e14312d2adc/Replacement_Relay</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Tandberg Speaker Protection Relay - I found a compatible good quality relay from Panasonic but many people obsess over OMRON, but when you look at everything else, a good quality relay of any type will work just fine.</image:title>
      <image:caption>I used a Panasonic JW2SN-DC24V AJW7212, 24VDC Coil 8-Pin DPDT relay. Note: The Tandberg is a SPST NO relay, so the extra contacts are just ignored.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/bb16688d-8e03-4572-8f7e-6544dfab131d/Daughterboard1</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Tandberg Speaker Protection Relay - As there was no way I was going to find a relay to fit where the old one came out I decided to make a little piggyback or daughterboard out of some spare project or Vero board.</image:title>
      <image:caption>The amplifier main board had a convenient hole right below where you see the little black screw. I used some plastic standoffs to make a mount and attached the board to it as you can see. The relay was soldered to the board and wires added for each needed contact.</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/b8bef2b6-0b64-470c-9c99-9ead7a484e33/Daughterboard2</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Tandberg Speaker Protection Relay - A slightly different angle here so you can see how the wires are simply soldered into the relay holes on the main amplifier board.</image:title>
      <image:caption>I used solid core wires as this is far better, and easier, than trying to use stranded wire. I did write down all the pinouts and test with a multimeter before I chose colors and committed to the final fit. Anyway, this solved the problem and both channels work perfectly and no popping when turning off. No need to recap anything.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/693185d87a6eb535966e2c57/1783449369178-HQXN7QJL1O5IPDSXRDGV/Tandberg+TR-2055+Receiver</image:loc>
      <image:title>Blog - Tandberg Speaker Protection Relay - One little extra was fitting a new 24v bulb as the stereo indicator had never worked. I probably forgot it even had one! The Tandberg TR-2055 features the exact same high-performance FM tuner section as the flagship TR-2075 which is considered world class as an FM receiver. Power Output: 55 watts per channel into 8 ohms, capable of handling 4 - 16 ohm speaker loads. Build: Solid aluminum body with rich wood side panels and top.</image:title>
      <image:caption>And it sounds fantastic.</image:caption>
    </image:image>
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